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I like...

There is some great conversation happening between me and Dave via email and in the comments section of this post. Feel free to jump on board and weigh in. There is a bit to read, but if you have the time I think it is worth it.

In other news, the first decent swell in 6 weeks has hit the west coast. Very fun waves on Monday night, and cranking double overhead waves at a secret left hand reef 30 mins from where I live last night. It was like waking up from a long sleep, like breathing oxygen again, like (whatever other cheesy metaphor you want to use).

God created surf to keep the truly talented people from ruling the world.

That is all

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“I like...”

  1. Blogger P-Style Says:


    A little off-topic, but I thought I'd pipe in - Latest Post on Stu MCgregors Blog about "Consumer Church" is very good. . check it out.

    hdnulm - Hard nu-Lament. The resurgence of "neo biblical hard core"

  2. Blogger Debs Says:

    Actually, i think God created surf so that women can perve at all the hot guys in their wet suits with their dripping wet hair and strong muscular thighs........

    On a more biblical note (although i guess lust is biblical cos its mentioned in the Bible, and christians seem to worry/stress/talk about it a whole lot).........

    I have a friend who experienced God as he was drowning out at wainui. He said as the co2 built up in his body and he started to realise he might die, his life flashed before him in bite size chunks. Him as a young lad, teenager, the other day etc. For that moment he accepted that God is real. Dont know why, he just did. Then all of a sudden he shot to the surface and his lungs filled with air. He doesnt yet know God but he hasnt forgotten that expereince.

    Another friend, who some surfers refer to as "the father" because he's a pastor, said he has really wonderful conversations with guys out there in the waves as they lie on their boards and wait. Some of these guys have come to know God through these conversations with 'the father'.